![]() ![]() Milling where the tree fell so no dirt in bark. Next log too knotty with too much taper to use for posts - firewood. This is one log for fence posts - no need for bandsaw. Pipe insulation on push bar helps with vibration. I'd use the aux oiler for anything over 16". Use just enough bar for the cut - hence the trimming. I'm ripping cedar fence posts here so have the mill set on a deep cut. Trimming the edge with a small husky 50 - I've ripped up to 10" with this saw. Don't cut the nail! Sight down the ladder to see if it is straight. Use what you got but be sure to secure it well. Ladder is light, guide boards can be used as well but heavier. I use at least 3 pairs of straps, 4 or 5 is better. Opposing tension on the strap helps hold the ladder tight to the log. Peavy in background, pry bar hiding in sawdust to move 6" slab - heavy! Small logs make great rollers for moving slabs around.Ĭloseup of wedge with strapping and nails. Overhang at beginning is crucial to getting saw started on track, short one needed on tail end. ladder secured to log with plumbers strapping bolted around rung and nailed to log with double headed nails. Lots of wedges to keep ladder from twisting. Look for that exotic, big log with special qualities that only a chainsaw mill can exploit.Įnd of the first cut showing ladder guide rail. Don't try to cut dimension stock as it is way easier to buy. A few choice logs will pay for a big, quality saw. My Granberg was paid for with the first log I cut. Buy quality if you are going to do it a lot. I've broken down many big logs into manageable pieces to bandsaw later. Cutting thick (2"+) slabs or beams is best as thinner boards generate lots of waste from the kerf. I've seen some people rig up a cable with hand crank to pull the saw along though I've never tried that myself. Ripping chain saves wood and gives a bit smoother cut but can cut slower. It takes time to get it set properly and securely. I use a ladder as a rail for the first cut. Getting the first cut perfect will save a lot of wood, time and aggravation for the following cuts. Don't expect a perfect surface and allow for lots of waste each side to get a smooth flat surface. Slabs are incredibly heavy so pry bars, cant hooks and come-alongs are necessary tools. Chainsaw milling is slow, dusty, noisy and exhausting with tons of vibration - wear all the protective gear - gloves, earplugs with earmuffs and dust mask. My granberg oiler broke its support bracket welds but was easy to McGyver with zip ties but otherwise the mill has held up great. An aux oiler is necessary for the wider cuts. Have heard that the double ended mills are tough to get in sync and you need two people but have never used one. I used a Stihl 90 on 36" redwood (easy to saw) and it struggled. For milling hardwood, get the biggest saw you can find. In my mind that is the only reason to use one over a band saw. As others have said, chainsaw milling is a tough job but will get you boards out of tough to get to spaces or when there is only a few logs to cut. ![]()
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